What is Program Mode?

We've gone through Aperture Priority and Shutter Priority and explained how these modes work. Now we'll go through Program Mode.

Program Mode is a setting in your camera in which you let the camera decide on both the Aperture and Shutter Speed required for a correct exposure. On most cameras, Program Mode is enabled by choosing "P" from the main control dial. Note that it doesn't stand for Portrait Mode as some people assume, we'll discuss that one in a future post.

How does Program Mode work?

As described, the camera automatically chooses aperture and shutter speed for a correct exposure, but unlike "Auto" mode, you do get to play with a few settings that give you some creative control. Among the things you have control over are:

1. Aperture and Shutter Speed ratio: Although the camera sets these, you can change the relationship between them to give you the combination you want. For example, if you know you want a larger aperture to blur the background, you can just rotate the wheel and the camera will maintain the ratio so you still get a good exposure.
2. Flash: With "Auto" mode, the flash will popup when the camera thinks it needs it, but with Program Mode it won't, you need to manually pop it up. This is actually a good think, because ocasionally you might want to use the flash when the camera thinks it's not required. For example, flash can be used in harsh daylight to brighten up shadows and get a better exposure of your subject. Try using flash outside on a sunny day as a fill light and you'll be surprised the difference this makes. The opposite is also true, sometimes using the built-in flash indoors gives you washed out faces with a very dark background. If you don't use flash indoors and instead raise your ISO to get a good shutter speed your results will be very different.
3. ISO: This affects the sensitivity of the sensor. Higher ISO’s let you shoot in low light but increase digital noise or grain. See What is ISO? for more info on this.
4. White Balance: Although most of the time leaving the camera in Auto White Balance works fine, in tricky lighting situations the sensor might be fooled and you’ll end up with a colour cast. If your image looks too orange or too blue try changing the White Balance.
5. Exposure Compensation: If the lighting situation is confusing your camera you might get an image that’s too bright or too dark. For example, shooting in a concert hall where most of the frame is very dark and a very small area on the stage is bright, the camera may think there’s not enough light and try to brighten up the whole scene producing a washed out image where the spectators are visible but the stage is completely blown out, which is probably the opposite of what you want. In these cases you can adjust your exposure up or down to compensate.

Why is Program Mode important?

Although I rarely use Program Mode these days, it’s very useful if you’re just out shooting snapshots and don’t need (or care about) aperture and shutter speed ratios. It’s very easy for people new to SLR’s because the camera does most of the thinking for you, and it can be a good learning tool if you pay attention to the choices the camera makes and analyse the results. However, it can also make you lazy and prevent you from learning the basics of photography if you just, literally, point and shoot.

As a recommendation, I wouldn’t use Program Mode for anything other than casual snapshots. If you’re out making a photograph (as opposed to just taking one), I’d suggest you skip both Program Mode and Auto.