I got a few emails after my post about overpowering the sun with small flashes. I'll explain briefly what I did using my own equipment, but there's also an abundance of information on the Internet on how to do this. I suggest you go over to the Strobist blog, where David Hobby has done a great job explaining how to light using speedlights. There's a wealth of information there.
Additionally, if you're using Nikon equipment, Mike Hagen's book The Nikon Creative Lighting System
(review here) does a great job at explaining how to get your flashes to do what you want. This book unfortunately doesn't go much into the applications of this kind of lighting, but it's the best source I've found on how to setup the flashes. It's kind of a replacement for the original manuals which I find frustratingly confusing.
There's also Joe McNally's new book The Hot Shoe Diaries
that has received great reviews so far and is definitely on my list. Joe is an amazing photographer (National Geographic, Sports Illustrated, etc.) and he knows how to write, his blog is informative and entertaining, so the book should be good. I haven't read it though.
Anyway, on to what I did. The photograph below is one I shot recently using the same equipment. I used a couple of Nikon SB-800's and one SB-600 fired through a translucent material held by 2 friends as a makeshift softbox. They were all fired with Pocket Wizards. I used a large-ish aperture (I think it was around f2.8) and set the shutter speed to 1/1250th of a second. That underexposed the ambient by about 1 stop. I was using the Nikon D70s which somehow can shoot at very high speeds without screwing up the flash. When an SB is mounted, the sync speed is 1/500, but if it's on a Pocket Wizard you can shoot at any speed. Anyway, I pumped all the flashes to maximum power and managed to get the image shown in that post.
Another not so extreme example is below. I shot that quickly with a friend just to test the speedlights with less harsh light. For this one, I had a Nikon SB-800 on camera as fill and as a master, and an SB-600 on an umbrella on camera right as the main light. I shot in Aperture Priority with an aperture of f/5.6. I underexposed the background (or ambient light) by 1 stop, which gave me a shutter speed of 1/250th of a second. Then I turned on both flashes and did a test shot with the SB-800 at -3.0, it's minimum power (as I only wanted a bit of fill) and the SB-600 at 0,0 (which was the main). Based on the results, I played around with the ratios and ended up with -1.7 on the SB-800 and 2.0 on the SB-600.

The cool thing about using an SB-800 mounted on the hotshoe is that you can control the power to each strobe from it's display, so you don't have to go to each one to increase or decrease the power.
Everything was done using Nikon's wireless flash system, called CLS (for Creative Lighting System). For those interested, here's how to set up the SB-600 and SB-800 to become master and/or slave:
SB-800: To turn it into Master (or Commander):
- Mount Flash in the camera's hot-shoe and turn both the Flash and the camera ON.
- Press the SEL button on the Flash for a couple of seconds. This will take you into the Custom Settings Menu.
- Press the buttons around the SEL to navigate to the box with the "squiggly arrows". Not sure why people call it that, but it's the box on the top-right corner. Press SEL again.
- In the options, use the + and - buttons to navigate to MASTER. Pres SEL again.
- Press ON/OFF button to go out.
That's it. Now the SB-800 is the commander Flash. You can turn it into a slave by following the same steps but selecting REMOTE instead of MASTER.
SB-600: To turn it into a Slave (or Remote):
- With the Flash ON, press the ZOOM and - buttons simultaneously for a couple of seconds. This will take you to the Custom Settings Menu (not the CSM mark on the Flash)
- Press the + or - buttons until you find the squiggly arrow sign.
- Press MODE button until you see ON.
- Press ON/OFF button to go out
If you do that, you'll be able to control the power of both from the back of the SB-800 mounted on your camera as long as they're both using the same channel. To overpower the sun all you need to do is slightly underexpose the ambient light (aka The Sun) and use the strobes as the main lights. Obviously there's a limit to this. If the sun is way too bright and/or your strobes are too far away from the subject, it won't work.