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Entries in video (12)

Saturday
Sep262009

Photographer showcase: Dave Hill

dave-hill-photography

Dave Hill is best known for a very distinct look he created that amateur photographers everywhere are desperately trying to emulate, and software companies are eagerly writing plugins and presets to mimic it. It's understandable. The look, kind of an HDR-type effect, is really cool and his images are striking. Although even a quick glance at his work is enough to see it's not just the effect that's at play. Dave Hill's post-processing work is truly elaborate, incorporating compositing to an almost illustrative level. But his imagery begins with great photography planned from the start. No plugin will ever duplicate that in my opinion.

I'd recommend you spend some time on his website, where you can see a great selection of his photographs in relatively high resolution (for screen), which is very welcome considering many photographers don't like to post big images on the web.

090417 Girl on an Adventure - Behind the Scenes from Dave Hill on Vimeo.

Another great thing about his site is the Behind the Scenes videos he shares. I'm always interested in how photographers work in the field and Dave Hill's videos show pretty much everything, from his lighting setups to his interaction with models and crew. As a quick example, above is the behind the scenes video for the image at the top of this post. Really interesting stuff.

However, one thing I recently discovered about Dave Hill while listening to a LightSource Photography podcast was his series of black & white portraits. Wow. Really cool stuff. Anyone who's obsessed with the "Dave Hill effect" needs to have a look at these photographs. They are truly beautiful. It's a completely different style from his commercial work and it's great to see a photographer showing his personal work. I'm definitely a fan of Dave Hill.

Dave Hill Black & White photograph

Monday
Aug032009

How to do a time-lapse video with an iPhone

NOTE: This was originally posted on shutterstation.com, but since decommissioning that site I've pulled some of the articles here so they don't get lost. 

Time-lapse photography is a technique in which a camera is programed to capture one frame at a time with a relatively large interval between shots. These photographs are then put together into a movie that, when played at normal speed, gives the impression of time passing much faster than normal.

Doing a time-lapse requires a camera that can be programed to take, say a photo every 2 minutes, for a long period of time. Some point and shoots have this capability and you can buy accessories for a dSLR that will allow you to do it. But since I discovered a very cool app for the iPhone that automates the process I've been playing with it quite a bit. The app is conveniently called TimeLapse and it sells for.

In the app you can set up the interval between shots, the number of photographs, and the size. Then you just need to leave it to it and all the images will be stored in the iPhone photo library. The video below was done as a quick test from 170 images. I'll explain the process below.

You can just point the camera at something and pick a random interval and number of shots and get an interesting result, but you'll get much better results if you plan ahead. Here's what you need to define:

1. The time the event you want to capture will take

This is the amount of time the event takes in real life, that is, from when you start shooting to when you snap the last shot. For example, if you want to capture a sunset from full daylight to total darkness, the event might take around 2 hours (depending on where you live). But if you want to capture a flower blooming the event could take a couple of weeks. Whatever it is, convert it into seconds. Let's take the sunset example and assume we want to capture a 2 hour event. That's 7,200 seconds.

2. The length of the final video

How long do you want your video to last? Let's say we want the sunset to be shown in a 30 second video.

3. The frame rate you want to use

Frame rate refers to the frames per second (fps) at which our final video will play. The standard for film is 24 fps and that's what I like to use, but you can use whatever works best for you. 30fps (or 29.97 to be exact) is standard for television and the frame rate many video cameras use.

OK, so now we have the 3 variables that we need to calculate the Time Between Frames (TBF), which is the amount of time between one shot and the next. This is key for a time lapse video. The variables in the example are:

  • Total time of event (TTE) in seconds = 7,200
  • Total time of video (TTV) in seconds = 30
  • Frame rate (fps) in frames per second = 24

The formula is:

  • TBF = TTE / (TTV * fps) or TBF = 7,200 / (30*24)
  • TBF = 10 seconds.

Now all we need to do is set TimeLapse (the app) to record an image every 10 seconds and to stop after 720 photographs (or 2 hours from the time you start). Set the iPhone somewhere safe where it won't move, and start the process. A few tips for shooting on the iPhone:

  1. Ensure you have a full battery or the iPhone is plugged in.
  2. Put the iPhone in Airplane Mode, as calls will interrupt the process.
  3. Ensure you have enough space for all the photographs.
  4. If you're going to capture more than 1000 images you'll have to rename, as the iPhone will go to 1000_1, 1000_2, etc. after 1000.

timelapse-screenshots

Once you're back at your computer, download all the images and drop them into a folder. Rename if you shot more than 1000 (you can use Automator on a Mac). To create the movie, I use Apple's QuickTime Pro, it's the easiest way and the software is cheap at $30. You can also use iMovie and Windows Movie Maker on a PC.

In QuickTime, all you need to do is go to the File menu and select 'Open Image Sequence', in the dialog box that appears select only the first photograph of the sequence and click Open. In the next dialog box select your frame rate and click OK. QuickTime will assemble the image and give you a preview. You can then save as a movie file and you're done.

You can buy TimeLapse directly from the App Store here.

To learn more about time lapse photography go here.

Friday
Jul102009

Aperture video tip: Selective Black & White in Apple Aperture 2

 NOTE: This was originally posted on shutterstation.com, but since decommissioning that site I've pulled some of the articles here so they don't get lost. 

This video shows you how to do selective black & white in Aperture using either the Color brick or the included Dodge & Burn plugin. A few days ago we posted a video on how to convert your photographs to black & white in Aperture with much more control than you get with just the Monochrome Mixer. This video takes off where the previous one finished.

If you prefer to read the tip, continue reading.

This tip is really simple. To turn specific areas of your photograph to black & white while leaving others in color, you have 2 options: 

  1. Color Brick: From the color brick, you can remove the saturation of specific colors by sliding the Saturation slider all the way to the left. This will turn these colors into black & white. However, doing this will desaturate the selected color in the entire image. For example, imagine a photograph of a person with blue eyes, wearing blue jeans, and standing outside with a blue sky. If you desaturate the blues, all 3 things (eyes, jeans, sky) will turn into black & white while leaving the rest in color. But what if you only want to turn the sky into black & white and not the jeans and eyes? Then you need to use the Dodge & Burn plugin.
  2. Dodge & Burn: Select the photograph and go to Images>Edit with>Dodge & Burn. Once the plugin opens, you'll have your photograph in full color ready for editing. Just select "Desaturate" from the drop-down on the top-left corner and paint away. As long as your Strength is at 1 (ie. 100% Desaturation), everywhere you paint will turn into black & white. You can change the size and softness of the brush to give you more control in smaller areas. If you go over an area by mistake, just switch to Saturate and the color will return. 

UPDATE (20 Feb 2010): This applies only to Aperture 2 and is no longer valid for Aperture 3. In the new version you can do this non-destructively without the need for plugins by using the Brush in feature. I explain it briefly in a comment below, but here it is for easy access:

Anyway, the good news is that it’s even easier to do in Aperture 3, and it’s non-destructive! All you need to do is pull the Saturation slider down to zero in the Enhanced brick (the entire image will turn to black and white). Then click on the gear symbol on the upper right corner of the brick and select “Brush Enhance In”, that’ll turn the image back into color, but now you can just brush in the black & white adjustment. Just play with the controls in the brush HUD to define the brush size and softness. For pure black and white push the Strength slider all the way to the right.

A better way is to use the Black & White brick. It gives you more control over the conversion to black & white.

Tuesday
Jun302009

Photographer showcase: Gregory Crewdson



I love getting an insight into how photographers think. This short OvationTV video gives us a glimpse into the mind of Gregory Crewdson and it's certainly worth a watch, especially since he's such a fascinating photographer. He is known for his highly elaborate scenes of American towns that he shoots with a Hasselblad Sinar 8x10 camera. Each of his photographs is produced like a movie, taking weeks of pre-production, in which he acts more like a film director than a traditional photographer.

You can see some of his photographs in Aperture Foundationartnet, and a good article in JPG magazine.

Sunday
Jun282009

Aperture Video Tip: Converting to Black & White in Apple Aperture 2

NOTE: This was originally posted on shutterstation.com, but since decommissioning that site I've pulled some of the articles here so they don't get lost.

In this video, we show you our favorite technique for converting photographs to black and white using Apple's Aperture 2. The obvious way of converting images is to just use the Monochrome Mixer brick and play with the Red, Green, and Blue control sliders in it. Many photographers do this as one of the last steps because they're following the traditional workflow of "top to bottom" editing, which means they apply changes to White Balance, Exposure, Levels, etc, on the color image before turning it into black and white.

The disadvantage of this approach is that you are not applying changes based on the intended outcome. A great black and white conversion may look terrible in color (it often does), and that's ok. As shown in the video, our preferred approach is to first apply the Monochrome Mixer conversion and then go from there. The best part of this tip is using the Color adjustment brick to give you a great deal of creative control.


OK, this is our first ever video tip so it's a kind of rough and a bit long at almost 10 minutes, but we hope you find it useful and we welcome your comments. If you'd rather read the tip, we've written a short summary of the basic steps below.

Step 1: Convert to Black & White with Monochrome Mixer

The Monochrome Mixer brick is not visible by default. To activate it, click on the 'plus' (+) sign in the adjustments tab and select it. Your photograph will turn into a standard greyscale image, but using this brick you can play with the Presets to see the effect they have on your image. You can fine tune the result with the Red, Green, and Blue sliders. Quick tip here, try to get the sum of Red, Green, and Blue to be around 100% if you want a realistic effect. Going to far beyond that in either direction will create some strange results. Give it a go.

Step 2: Play with the other adjustment bricks

Now that you have a good starting point, you can go back to the top and start working your adjustments top to bottom. Start by playing with the White Balance sliders, they will affect the overall tonality of your image. Then go to the Exposure, Enhance, and Levels bricks and adjust as necessary. Each will do something different and the effect depends on the type of photograph you're editing. The best way to learn is to play with them.

Step 3: Perform fine adjustments with the Color brick

This is the cool step really. By adjusting the Luminance slider in each of the colors in the Color brick, you can alter tones with much greater control. To give you an example, if you adjust the Red Luminance slider, the parts of the photograph that are red in the color version will turn lighter or darker in isolation of the other colors as you move the slider. This gives you an amazing amount of control. Imagine working on a landscape with a bright blue sky. By adjusting the Blue luminance slider you can make the sky darker without affecting anything else in the photograph. It's almost like using a mask to affect only the sky, but without actually having to do any selections. If you're into black and white photography you have to give this a try.

Step 4: Add a vignette to darken the corners

This is of course a very subjective adjustment and some photographers may not like the effect. We mention it here because adding vignettes to black and white photographs has been common since the film days, and you can do it right from Aperture. Like the Monochrome Mixer, this isn't a default adjustment brick, so you need to activate it by selecting it from the 'plus' sign at the top of the Adjustments tab.

Using this technique you have an enormous amount of control over your black and white conversions. If only Aperture had a brick to add realistic film grain it would be the perfect black and white conversion tool. And remember all this is non-destructive, so you can go back and adjust as many times as you want.

Thursday
Jun112009

Short Film: MORE by Mark Osborne


I love stop motion animation, and I love this short film by Mark Osborne. Definitely worth the 6 minutes or so it takes to watch it. It has an inspiring lesson and it'd be interesting to see what others take from it. Go over to happyproduct.com if you want to see it larger.
Tuesday
Jun022009

Audrey Tautou, Chanel N°5... and a Leica M8



Chanel N°5 has been doing a combination of short film and TV ad as a form of branded entertainment marketing for a while now. They've been pretty good so far, definitely much better than watching the normal 30 second TV ad that nobody cares for. At least these are beautifully shot, tell a story, and are actually entertaining.

These short films usually pair a good film director with a famous actor, and in this latest one it's Jean-Pierre Jeunet with Audrey Tautou, who worked together before in Amelie, a great film by the way. A previous one featured Nicole Kidman directed by Baz Luhrmann, the same pair that did Australia with Hugh Jackman.

Anyway, another interesting point (at least for me), is that there's a scene where Audrey is very obviously shooting with a Leica M8 digital rangefinder. After seeing her holding the camera with the red logo clearly visible, she looks at the back and shuffles through some photos, giving you a clear view of both the front and the back of the camera. I'm not sure if it's product placement, but if it is it's certainly a great idea to link these 2 brands. Heck, the Leica is a beautiful $6,000 camera. And I want one, but that's beside the point.

The photography community online is all over this one and it seems to be getting quite a buzz in forums and blogs. Hey, I'm writing about it also. Seems to me like a much better way of marketing a product. Produce a very high quality piece of entertainment that's truly entertaining, put it "out there" on the web where people can watch it when they want to, embed it in their blogs and Facebook pages, and pass it on to their friends (as opposed to annoyingly interrupting a show on TV), and link brands to attract niche audiences at the same time. Maybe it's just because I'm into photography and I'm looking too much into it, but from what I've read online this ad has done a pretty good job of generating positive buzz for both Chanel N°5 and Leica amongst photographers, wether this was intentional or not. I'm sure many photographers will buy their partners Chanel N°5 for their birthdays just because of this film.